When you work in travel for many years, people often ask if destinations still surprise you. After visiting countless places across Peru, I sometimes wonder the same thing myself. But every now and then, a place reminds me exactly why I fell in love with this country in the first place. For me, one of those places is the Colca Valley—and especially the experience of staying at Colca Lodge, a sanctuary of warmth, silence and starlight hidden deep in the Andes. Some journeys are remembered for what you see. Others stay with you for how they make you feel.
From Arequipa to the Colca Valley
My journey began early in Arequipa, the elegant colonial city known as the White City. Soft morning light reflected off its volcanic stone buildings as we left the city behind and began climbing toward the highlands. Even after many years of organizing journeys through Peru, this road still fills me with anticipation. Arequipa gradually disappeared behind us, replaced by vast plains and distant mountains. The air became cooler and thinner as we climbed, and the landscape seemed to grow more dramatic with every kilometer. In the Andes, getting there is often part of the experience. The road crosses the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve, where wide, windswept plains stretch toward the horizon and wild vicuñas move gracefully through the landscape. I have seen them many times, and yet I still reach for my camera. We stopped along the way to acclimatize and take in the views. Snow-capped volcanoes rose in the distance, alpacas grazed across the altiplano and above us stretched one of those impossibly blue Andean skies that make everything feel larger.
Patapampa: High in the Peruvian Andes
One of my favorite moments along this route is reaching Patapampa Pass, at more than 4,900 meters above sea level. From here, the surrounding volcanoes seem to rise endlessly around you. Standing among those immense peaks, you begin to understand the true scale of the Andes—vast, ancient and humbling.
The wind at this altitude is crisp and the air remarkably thin. I stood there for a while taking photographs, surrounded by a landscape that makes you feel very small in the best possible way. Then the road began to descend. Gradually, the stark high-altitude plateau gave way to green terraces carved into the mountainsides. Some of these ancient agricultural terraces are still cultivated today, cascading down the slopes like enormous staircases shaped into the earth. Small villages began to appear along the route, with stone houses gathered around colonial churches and local women in colorful traditional dress adding flashes of color to the landscape. After the immensity of Patapampa, the Colca Valley felt alive.
Arriving at Colca Lodge
Several hours after leaving Arequipa, we finally reached Colca Lodge. From the moment I arrived, I felt that wonderful sensation of reaching somewhere that asks you to slow down. Built with natural stone and traditional Andean influences, the lodge feels connected to its surroundings rather than separated from them. Gardens filled with flowers and native plants descend toward the river, while mountains rise around the property.
But there was one experience I had been anticipating since we left Arequipa. Hidden just below the lodge, beside the river, are its natural thermal springs. And as the afternoon light began to fade and the mountain air turned cooler, I wrapped myself in a warm robe and followed the stone path down toward the pools.
Hot Springs Beneath the Stars
The sound of the river accompanied me as I walked. Then I saw the steam rising gently from the thermal waters. There are few sensations quite like stepping into naturally heated water after a long day traveling through the Andes. The warmth surrounds you instantly. I slipped into the pool just as the final colors of sunset disappeared behind the mountains. Above me, the first stars began appearing in the clear Andean sky. Soon there were thousands. Around me were mountains, darkness and silence. Soft lighting illuminated the pools without disturbing the night, while the river continued flowing nearby. Then, at exactly the right moment, a member of the staff appeared beside the pool carrying a tray. “Your wine, señora.” I couldn't help but smile. With a glass of red wine in hand, I leaned against the edge of the pool and looked up.
Warm water. Starlight. And the quiet magic of the Andes. For a while, nothing else seemed particularly important. The long road from Arequipa, the altitude, the changing landscapes and all the photographs I had taken during the day somehow led to this wonderfully simple moment. And perhaps that simplicity was precisely what made it feel so special.
One More Reason to Stay a Little Longer
Eventually, I left the thermal waters and followed another small path toward the lodge's spa. Inside, natural materials and soft lighting continued the sense of calm, while large glass surfaces kept the mountains and night sky close. As I settled onto the massage table, the therapist began a soothing Andean-inspired treatment. Through the glass above me, I could still see the stars.
After a day spent crossing high mountain passes and watching the landscape transform kilometer by kilometer, my body finally seemed to understand that the journey was over for the day. There is something deeply restorative about moments like this—when you stop thinking about what comes next and simply allow yourself to be exactly where you are. By the time the massage ended, the Andes had worked their magic once again.
A Night to Remember in the Colca Valley
Later that evening, I returned to my room. Outside, the valley was almost completely silent. The air was cool, the sky brilliantly clear and the mountains stood quietly in the darkness. The following morning would bring another unforgettable experience: watching the condors soar above the Colca Canyon. But that could wait. That night belonged to the valley. When travelers think of Peru, Machu Picchu almost always comes first. And yes, Machu Picchu is extraordinary.
But after so many years traveling through this country, I have learned that some of the memories that stay with us longest are often the quieter ones. A road disappearing into the Andes. Vicuñas crossing the altiplano. A glass of wine beside a thermal pool. Stars appearing one by one above the mountains. Moments when you aren't trying to see anything else or get anywhere else. You are simply there. For travelers looking for adventure, beauty and a little space to slow down, the Colca Valley offers something very special. And for me, that night beneath the stars will always be one of those moments that reminds me why, after all these years, Peru can still surprise me.